Saturday, October 28, 2006

Sapa

First meet my Sapa fellow travellers, my Sapa freinds.
Uncle Andy (because he is so old :-), private joke)
Andy
And Andrea
Andrea
They both are from Switzerland, good friends from back home (not a couple). I met them on my way to the train from Hanoi to Sapa. On the train I got a very boring cabin with 3 French people, they went to sleep as the train moved. I went out for a smoke and search for a company. Andrea and Andy were out smoking as well. The three of us went to the train bar. It was great! We were the only Westerns in there surrounded by friendly local people, mostly men. They had beers and were singing Karaoke, yes, apparently it is very common in Vietnam.
We arrived in Sapa early in the morning, and I decided if I already awake so early I might as well make the best out of it, so I hiked up to the radio tower, beautiful. It was really foggy because Sapa is quite high in the mountains but I enjoyed the fresh air, the piece of mind, the birds sound, it was AMAZING!
Sapa View of the moutain from the Radio tower

The next day, I had a slow morning and in the afternoon Me, Andy and Andrea went to see the near by Cat-Cat village.

The following day, the last day in Sapa (yesterday) we rented two motorbikes, one for me with a wild Vietnamese driver and one for Andy and Andrea. We had a beautiful ride to the villages around. The scenery was spectacular!
Village around Sapa Village around Sapa

I got back to Hanoi today at 05:30 am, went back to the Old Street guest house were I was suppose to meet up with Sarah, an English girl I met in Hanoi before I left to Sapa.

Me & Sarah are now in Ninh Binh, lovely quiet town, tomorrow we are going to see the caves here around and then night bus to Hue.

This was my quick update
Hope you all are good!

Be well!
Some more pictures as always http://www.flickr.com/photos/oksana-s/

Monday, October 23, 2006

Books hit parade!

I decided to open a new "corner" in my blog and recomend you a book once in a while.

  1. I read this one twice and loved it even more the second time. It is inspiring book about the life of Van Gogh "Lust for Life" by Irving Stone.
  2. Remember I talked about Sex Tourism? Check out "Sex Slaves: The Trafficking of Women in Asia" by Louise Brown, I loved it!

Please comment back with your hits, I have a lot of time for books now :-)...

Hanoi

Great People
Yesterday I started my tour in Hanoi by searching for a hospital. For the last couple of days after the flight, my right ear was blocked but I didn't pay attention to it. Well, it got really bad, I couldn't sleep all night and completely lost hearing in right ear. I got really scared and first thing in the morning took a motorbike taxi to the hospital. I asked the driver to take me to the international Vietnam hospital (which was advised in the lonely planet), but I guess he only understood the hospital part and took me to local hospital. It was a challenge to find somebody who speaks English, eventually I did, and he kindly refereed me to a different hospital which specialize in ears problems.
I cannot describe to you how the hospital looks like, I prefer not to think about it. But the people were fantastic!!! The motorbike driver stayed with me the all time so I won't get lost and he could take me back when I finish. Without understanding one word in English he did his best to help me.
A local doctor checked my ear, explained me in a very poor English that I have a bad infections. She performed a cleaning procedure (sorry for the details) and prescribed me a "horse amount" of antibiotics, drops, etc'. For the next 7 days, no Bia Hoi for me :-).

Yes, they hassle you on the streets trying to make some money, but all you need is just look a bit deeper. They are amazing people!!!

This unpleasant experience really changed my attitude, I spent the rest of my day by the lake, answering with a smile to every offer for motorbike or any other sales campaign and getting a smile back! In some point a young Vietnamese man approached me and asked to talk with me to practice his English (yes, I know he made the wrong choose :-), but my English still was better than his), I gladly agreed and we had a nice conversation! (if he would approached me the day before I would probably be very suspicious and wouldn't agree to his company).

Don't worry, I will be fine, I am taking my medicine and most importantly I am surrounded by carrying people.

Sights
Today I started my day in the Ho Chi Mihn Mausoleum Complex, then continued to the Temple of Literature
Temple of Literature, Hanoi
then, Ngoc Son Temple
Ngoc Son Temple, Hanoi
and finished my day in the Water Puppet Theatre. It was a magical show accompanied by Vietnamese traditional music.
Water Puppets Teatre, Hanoi Water Puppet Theater, Hanoi

Tomorrow I will pay a visit to some museums and catch a night train to Sapa.

I love Hanoi!

Be well!

P.S uploading pictures is a challenging mission, since the connection is very slow, I still uploaded a few http://www.flickr.com/photos/oksana-s/ and the rest with stories when I get back :-)

Saturday, October 21, 2006

Halong Bay

"Magnificent Halong Bay is undoubtedly the natural wonder of Vietnam. Picture 3000 or more incredible islands rising from the emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin and you have a vision of greatness." - Lonely planet

After all the amazing beaches I saw in Thailand I was sure it just cannot get any better. Well, I was wrong, Halog Bay is breath taking!!!
I spent two days on a boat surrounded by Islands with a great group of people.
No words can describe the stars and the moon you see lying on a deck, or the amazing sunrise (I woke up before 05:00 am, to see the sunrise)!
We reached Cat- Ba island on the second day, did great kayaking tour around and stayed the night in Cat-Ba. In the evening, Luat (our guide) took us to have Bia-Hoi, local draft beer in a local street drinking stand. It was really nice!
I had long conversations with Luat during the days, and we had so much in common. He new Russian songs (Vietnam was really close to USSR in past) , knew a lot about Russian culture, history, and of course the communist party. He shared with me very interesting insights on Vietnam, which were really great addition to the book I am reading a view of modern Vietnam. The history of this country is fascinating!!!

This was the best introduction to Vietnam I could ask for, beautiful landscape, friendly people, interesting and very different life! I cannot wait to explorer more...

Now I am back in Hanoi and for the next couple of days will stay around to enjoy this hectic and very busy capital, then to the mountains, Sapa.

Be well!
Pictures as always here http://www.flickr.com/photos/oksana-s/

Thursday, October 19, 2006

From hectic Bangkok to even more hectic Hanoi, Vietnam

I had my coffee today in the morning in Bangkok and just now coming back from a nice live Jazz bar in Hanoi! This was a long day across countries :-).
I got to the old quarter in Hanoi around noon, and in the first 10 minutes almost got hit by a motorbike, what a traffic!!!!
It is hectic and even more annoying than Bangkok, you cannot walk on the street without being hassled to buy something, or offered a taxi, it is crazy!
I need some time off the cities, so I booked a Cruz in Halong Bay for 3 days starting from tomorrow. Then I will get back to explorer Hanoi and tell you all about it.
As a compensation for this crazy day, I found a nice Jazz bar and spend my evening in there.O, they were very good, what a saxophone!!!! It made me very home sick, Slavchik was missing there on a bass :-(

Anyway, we will catch up when I will be back to the ground...

Be well!

Monday, October 16, 2006

More of Bangkok

Guess who I met yesterday evening? Fu, remember from Chang-Mai trek and my bungy body (http://oksana-s.blogspot.com/2006/08/one-two-three-bungy.html). He recognized me as he saw me, and of course addressed me by my Thai name (given by him), Dao :-). This is unbelievable, what are the chances?
He was with some English people, got to Bangkok for only one night. I have spent the evening with them, catching up with Fu. It was really nice seeing him again, and I sent my best regards to Koy (Chang Mai Inn owner) and Sunny (the legendary trek guide).

As for the last days, I am spending my time exploring Bangkok.

Lumphini Park
Lumphini Park, Bangkok Lumphini Park, Bangkok

Night Bazaar
For me just another site, I skipped the shopping part :-).
Check out the live concert video, it is so funny when they sing in English it's still sounds like Thai :-).


more pictures as always here http://www.flickr.com/photos/oksana-s

Be well!

Sex Tourism

We have not yet talked about it, I mean I haven't stop talking about it since I arrived to Thailand, but have not yet blogged about it. Till now, I just stayed away from this nasty scene, but in Bangkok you can't really escape, it is EVERYWHERE!!!
Old, bold, fat western men with young Thai girls (English and German are rule in this scene, sorry, I don't want to offend nobody). Disgusting!!!!
And the most disturbing about it is that it is part of the norm, I mean nowhere you see propaganda against it, no street posters, etc'.
You can easily end up in prison for smoking a joint, but it is okay to buy a human toy for entertainment, even if she/he is a minor.
LONG LIVE THE KING!!!

Saturday, October 14, 2006

Colorful Bangkok

I have decided to stay and explorer Bangkok in the 3 days I have left. I actually starting to like this city, it has everything! Temples, museums, art galleries, markets, cafes, and much more...
Today I have spent 5 hours in the grand palace complex, and then just roamed around, took a ferry, sky train, bus, etc'.

Grand Palace complex
(check out the skirt I been given, apparently 3/4 long pants are not humble enought for the royal palace :-))
Me in Grand Palace, Bangkok Grand Palace, Bangkok

River side
River side, Bangkok Bangkok river side

Sky Train
Sky Train station, Bangkok Sky Train, Bangkok

Street food - isn't it looks yummy?
Exotic street food Exotic street food

I still have a long list of must to see places I have marked in my book, so more to come...

More pictures as always here > http://www.flickr.com/photos/oksana-s/ (sorry for the quality, I am still learning all the features of my new camera).

Be well!

Lazy days...

12/10/06 - Day 3 in Bangkok
I didn't do much, spent some time by the pool side in my guest house, went to the park, got a massage done. In the evening I met Jak the Australian guy from the previous night, he was having a drink so I joined him for ONE as well.
The rest of that night and following day 4 (today) is out of record :-)...
Jak left to London couple of hours ago and I am having a quiet night, staying out of the streets, spending my time to catch up with you guys.

By the way I got my visa today and bought a ticket, it is final now, on the 18/10 (Wednesday, next week) I am flying to Hanoi, Vietnam. I am not sure, maybe I will go to Kanchanaburi tomorrow, although I should do some site seeing in Bangkok as well, I been planning to visit the palace for the last 4 days, but never got there...

Be well!

Friday, October 13, 2006

Proper end to a spiritual day or "International drinking night in Bangkok"

11/10/06 - Evening
I was mentally overwhelmed and tired from this spiritual day. I got back to the happening Koa-San area, and went down to have ONE beer! There is a street drinking stand right next door to my guest house. I had my beer, watched the people on the street (so many, so different), wrote some notes in my diary.
Same as me, there were another three guys sitting around me, each having his drink, thinking his own toughs.....
One hour later we were drinking together! One drink, and one more... I got back at 06:00 am totally drunk.
It was a fun night, the guys were really great, lucky me, we had some good laughs!
International Party in Bangkok International night in Bangkok

I didn't open a door to ultimate happiness that day, but I knew earth happiness that night, and a proper hang over the next day :-)...

Be well!

Coincidence ?!?

11/10/06 Wednesday - My second day in Bangkok.
I decided to escape the hectic streets and go to the International Buddhism Meditation center in Bangkok. Study meditation was one of my primary interests in Thailand, but since I have arrived there was no room for spiritual life, I mean with all the parties and fun :-). Back in Chang Mai in the begging of the trip I visited several temples and there were several options to get to a course, but it was never the right time.
Now that I am in Bangkok and have some time maybe this is a good time, I thought.
I was welcomed by an old monk, we had an interesting conversation. I explained that I am interesting to learn mediation in order be able to control my mind to a certain extent. Better handle mood swings, stress situations, and most importantly be able to just switch off, give my mind a rest like when I sleep. I also told him (very gently) that I have no interest in religion, I am a Jew, I said, and if I decide to adopt any god in some point of my life and follow the tradition it will be Judaism. He said that I do not have to take part in any religious rituals, prayers, etc'. Of course I completely understand that eventually one things leads to another, but I believe that part of every learning process is to be smart and filter the information you get.
Anyway, the monk offered me to try right away, and decide in the end of the session if I want to join the course, and for how long.
He showed me how to walk & sit and on what should I focus on, without getting into any philosophy behind (maybe because of his English, maybe from some other reason, he answered my questions really brief and not in details).
I was walking and sitting, walking and sitting... for 7 hours (1/2 hour break). It was NOT easy, and the hardest is to concentrate. I suppose to completely ignore the surroundings, noises, etc', but I couldn't, I stayed very well aware during the all time. Now I understand why everywhere they suggest as long course as possible, it is a hard job to be able to concentrate, much harder than I imagined!
I finished my lesson, and now I had to decide... I was sitting, reading the strict rules of the temple, it is a hard decision! Outside of the temple there is a world full of pleasures, am I ready to leave everything? Am I strong enough? Me, the ultimate hedonist.
As I was thinking, a western monk got into the meditation hall, looking very familiar, I have approached him and asked, are you Udi, from Givat Brener? Yes! He was very surprised, and I was speechless! What an unbelievable coincidence!!!
Givat Brener is a name of a place I lived in Israel. One of the nights before I left to Thailand, Me, Leika and Eran (my neighbor) were sitting out and talking about my travelling plans. I mentioned that I want to try meditation, Eran said - "Search for Udi, he is originally from Givat Brener as well, he is now in Thailand for many years, monk in some Temple in north, you will easily recognize him, he is very tall with blue eyes." The three of us had a good laugh (find a monk in a country with infinite ammount of temples and monks) ...
Udi told me that he just arrived in Bangkok today, he is living and teaching up North in some very isolated place, and arrived in Bangkok to take care of his passport.
Well, how would you call this?
We had a long conversation, it turns out that Udi has his own meditation center in North(not a temple) and he kindly invited me to attend a course at his place. He gave me his contact information and we agreed to be in touch when I get back to Thailand.

So as you understand I have not joined the course in Bangkok, I decided that if I will do the course I should do it with Udi, or maybe it is just an excuse again... Anyway for now I did my first 7 hours on the way to the light :-)...

Be well!

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Back in Bangkok

I got to Bangkok today at 06:00 am after 16 hours on a bus :-( (from Krabi town, where I spent nice 3 days). Since I didn't had much sleep I was sure once I check in I will crash, but I couldn't. I was restless, I came here for a reason I thought, so business first. I went to the Israeli connection to get my visa for Vietnam. Now there was one another important task, CAMERA. For me as a lonely traveller, camera and a book are my best friends, it keeps me busy and more importantly it forces me to stop, to look around, to capture a landscape, place, or crowd as I see it. It is my memories, my impressions of places. There were several times during the last couple of weeks that I almost bought a camera in South, but everybody advised to wait for Bangkok. So I did...

I took a bus to the MBK and got lost in this HUGE place.
MBK, Bangkok MBK, Bangkok

I hate shopping!!!

The plan was to get in, spend maximum an hour and get out. Well, it took me almost two hours only to find the camera section in this 5/6 floors building (I didn't really understood, is it 5? or 6?), it is really HUGE!!!
Who needs so many shops? Is it really fun?
I got really annoyed, what a waste of a time!!! I should have just bought my camera in Krabi, so I might pay a bit more, but I wouldn't have to spend a day in a huge mall.
It took me another two hours to choose my "new friend" (camera I mean), such a huge selection, again who needs it?
Too many chooses is confusing and makes me feel lost... Maybe it is only me...
Anyway, I really do not understand much in camera's, there were two things that were important to me: Olympus, since the previous one did a good job and a better zoom.
I found it!!!!
I am proud to introduce you with my new baby :-), now that I read some reviews (really smart, after I bought it), anyway it gets good grades, so maybe I am not that bad after all :-).
My New Camera!!! My New Camera!!!
http://www.olympus.co.uk/consumer/29_SP-500_UltraZoom.htm

Saturday, October 07, 2006

Ko-Lanta Paradise

I finally found myself on a beach, with no connection to the outside world: no phones, no emails, no shops, no cars, no bikes, no pubs, no people, not even 7 eleven! I got to Lanta from Pee-Pee on Wednesday and this time I decided to go for an isolated beach on the island, about 10km away from the main "town". I stayed in guest house on the beach, beautiful bungalows with sea view, big windows (luxury), beautiful pool facing the sea, and a warm guest house family restaurant under an open sky facing the sea as well. When the sea is high, you sit in the restaurant and the ways are actually "touching" you.
The whether was perfect! It was raining almost every day, but in the second part of the day the sun would come out "to show off" with AMAZING sunset.
I walked on the beach when it wasn't raining, beautiful long strip with no soul around. Or just set under cover by the pool side listening to the best sound tracks made by the ways, the wind, the rain and the birds. I spent a day in a national park on the island, just took a taxi and went by myself, there was no soul in there as well.
Four days I have been completely isolated, just me and my book, and I enjoyed it a lot! Maybe after all I will be able to do a Vipassana course and shouldn't be so afraid.

Looking back, it was great two months of vacation, parties, people, but I feel now I am ready to move on. I have received my placement with Travel2Teach organization, 4 weeks, starting from 11/11 teaching kids English in Cambodia. There are still some final arrangements to do, to make it final, but I am already very anxious.

I reached Krabi now, took the latest transportation I can from Lanta. I really didn't want to leave Lanta, but I suppose to call my Mom every Friday (which was yesterday, and since there were no phones, it was the first Friday I missed the call), as expected she was worried. I also need to get my visa extension done, upcoming Monday is my last legal day in Thailand, so I shell visit the Krabi migration office first thing in the morning.

Be well!

Monday, October 02, 2006

Strange days...

The strangest things are happening...
Snorkeling
I will start from the beginning. I am still in Pee-Pee, as I wrote the last time, I did went snorkeling the next day, and to the near by island and of course the Maya beach (the beach from the movie "The beach":-)). It was beautiful, it's like being inside national geographic movie, but be able actually touch it and feel it, a peek to the under water world. Beautiful corals, fishes in different colors and sizes, amazing!
Please STOP for 10 minutes from your busy life and take a look at the pictures, I saw it life!!! I have been there!!!

http://www.phi-phi.com/gallery/211/gallery.htm

It was a beautiful sunny day as well, actually the last sunny day, now it is already third day of rain and wind.

Diving
After the snorkeling day out, I finally decided to try diving and go deeper. I enrolled to an open water diving course, got a big book and was asked to read the first chapter (67 pages) toward the first lesson which suppose to take place the next morning. I went to the room, and spent till the middle of the night reading the basics for diving and getting all excited toward the big day. I did the self quiz for the first chapter and went to sleep very pleased with myself.
I wake up to a windy and rainy morning, and despite the whether I went to the diving school, back in school again :-). I got there and the day started with watching a DVD, which mostly repeated what I already read in the book. Then I meet Val, my diving instructor for the day. We had about 1.5 hours theoretical studies, going over the basics and equipment, in the end of the theoretical part I took an exam and got 8 of 10 questions right (not the best, I know :-)). Anyway I got into a diving suit, really looked like a babe from a "Bay Watch" :-), and we went to the beach. We got into the water, I was doing fine with breathing and felt comfortable in the water, but could not equalize. The same as in Sinai all over again, bad pressure and ache in my right ear, pumping the nose doesn't helped. We got back up. I explained to Val that I get the same every time I fly, we rested for some time and gave it another try. The result was the same, my right ear was blowing up. This was the end of my 4 days diving course! I never made it to the open water :-(. I payed almost 400 nis, this was the original agreement for dropping out in any point during the course.
Very disappointed, I spent the rest of the day on the beach, under heavy gray clouds and bad wind. And in the evening I went out for one drink, and ended up going from one pub/dance bar to another, every time with different people.

Crazy night!
The following day, I wake up late into another cloudy & windy day in Phi-Phi. I read my book the all day, when it wasn't raining I sat on the beach, when it rained, got into one of the restaurants on the beach for a shake.
In the evening as was already early planed, me & Oli went out for a party night. Oli finished advanced diving course, 3 days of waking up really early, sleep early, etc', he needed a party. I wasn't really in a party mood, I already had a non planed party night. But eventually I decided to join Oli.
We started by drinking in the diving school bar. We meet two girls from Ireland, one of them dived with Oli, Gemma & Emy. And after a while we were sitting next to a big round table, full of people, instructors and students in the school. We had nice conversations, each shared stories about their travelling, we had several beers and in some point decided to move to Tiger bar. I have been in Tiger the previous night, nice dance bar. We all went there and had more drinks in Tiger. Then we moved to Apache and had more drinks (I know it sounds bad :-)). We stayed there till they close the doors, drinking and dancing, Oli, Me, Gemma, Emy, Lora ( from Germany, also dived with Oli), and others from the diving school. It was really a lot of fun!
From Apaches the only choose was to move on to Hippies, the only place which is open at 02:30 AM, off season, in Phi-Phi. From this point and on this was the strangest night of my life!
On our way to Hippies we lost Oli, he was going right behind us talking with some french guys and in some point we lost him. I felt responsible for this guy, I don't even know why, so I went back for him, when I saw Oli I first realize that he is really drunk, but you know we all have been drinking. We got to Hippies, the strangest place, fully packed with people, but no music is playing, people just sit, have a drink and talk to each other. We immediately meet more people, I remember, Amir, Harry .... Anyway Oli was hanging around with Shay a guy (I think a lady boy) from Lao who we meet in Tiger early. We went down to the beach, Me, Gemma, Emy, Amir, Harry and other's and suddenly I see Oli, completely wet. Apparently, he got into the water with Shay, with all his clothes on him, including camera, wallet and a key to his room. He was gone, I didn't realize how drunk he was. He didn't know where his things are, the only thing was left in his jeans pocket was camera, which was dead. No key, no wallet. It was really hard to communicate with him, he kept asking to take him to the room. It was really windy and he was completely wet. I decided that I should take him back home, since we anyway live in the same guest house. I really didn't want to end the night, I meet some really nice people and was chatting with them, but I felt really bad for Oli. I said Goodbye to everybody and we left. In some point Oli stoped and asked again, where are his things "Where is my wallet? Do you have my camera? Where is the key?", he kept on asking the same questions the all night and every time I explained the same. "You jump into the water with all your stuff on you, we couldn't find it on the beach...", etc'. He was really upset, so I suggested to take another look on the beach. I left him in one of the guest houses on the way and went back to check the beach again. Emy volunteered to go with me, but we couldn't find a thing. I picked up Oli, and we continued our way the guest house. Oli was really mess, he was angry at himself, repeating how stupid he is, I tried to calm him down, but had no success. He spoke in German, in some point stoped and said he cannot walk anymore. We mad it to the guest house eventually, the problem was that we had no key to Oli's room, and of course there is no reception in the middle of the night (I guess it was around 03:00, maybe 03:30). I took him to my room, forced him to a hot shower, and got him into bed. He kept on asking the same questions about his things, and kept on beating himself. In some point I gave up on the idea to comfort him, and fall asleep.
We wake up around 12:00, not sure what was for real and what was a dream. Oli was disappointed and I felt bad for him as well, I have told him what happened last night, he couldn't even remember we were in Hippies. He remembered some parts, while other where completely erased.
The Irish girls did found the key, but the wallet was still gone and the camera and the card with all his pictures was not working. Oli spent most of the day trying to find his wallet, he had around 250$, saving card, driving licence, etc' in. We went to the Hippies together, hope to find the wallet of the beach around Hippies, but couldn't. Then we took a walk on the beach, today as the previous days, it was cloudy and windy again. I suggested to rent a movie and use the fact we have TV and DVD in the room to see a movie. We watched Madagascar, I went for dinner with Lora, and Oli went back to Hippies again, try to ask the staff maybe they found something.
I am now after a dinner, Lora suggested to join her for a drink, but I decided to share some of the last days load with you instead, so I am spending my evening writing this long story for you.

H.C.Andersen weird guest house
And if you think this is not enough, I shell tell you a bit about Pee-Pee, specifically about the place I stay in. As you probably know Pee-Pee was seriously damaged by the Tsunami, so the all island is under constructions, they are building everywhere. The overall scenery on land (unlike the beach) is not very attractive, it is a big mess. My guest house is located inside the Island, between construction sites, shops, diving schools, massage shops, bars (Tiger is around a corner)), restaurant, etc'. The room has a window (it took me two days to find it) but it better stay closed since it takes into a really small and DIRTY alley and the wall of the next building is about 2 meters away. There is TV, DVD & a Fan in the room, even a minibar, but it is not a cozy room, it is more like lovers, cheap motel. The shower is smelly and the water doesn't go down, but I have hot water. The ceiling is very low, and having no window, the room is always dark and stuffy.
In addition to the romantic insides, the guest house located in an alley in which there are always lady boys, so on the way in and out at any time, day or night, we say hello to each other. First night I felt very uncomfortable, and a bit scared but now it became part of my dark stay in Pee-Pee.

I plan to move from Pee-Pee the day after tomorrow. Tomorrow me & Oli plan to go the Long beach for snorkeling and take a boat to Maya beach to spend several hours in there. It suppose to be the last sites scenery day in Pee-Pee, and the day after tomorrow I am moving on the Ko-Lanta and Oli to Puket to start the way home to Germany, after a very long time out.

Be well!